The World in 202 Meals

To me, “gastropub” is almost a form of British cuisine in its own right. In my hometown of Toronto, a city of many restaurants and food snobs, I’ve been to plenty of bars that care about what they serve. But the food at London’s gastropubs, where the movement began, is unique, and uniquely British—traditional, pricier than average British pub fare upgraded with seasonal ingredients and exotic influences. With my London gastropub-virgin friend Emily visiting from Toronto last Tuesday, I had the perfect excuse to find us a good one to visit for dinner—and to blog about, although 202 Meals will do a proper, official British meal at some point. (In fact, ideally, separate English, Welsh, Scottish and Northern Irish meals—recommendations welcome!)

It was harder than I thought to track down a candidate in central London, perhaps because I’m used to living a short walk away from at least four gastropubs in north London: The Lord Palmerston (nice bar and dining room, good but overpriced food), The Lord Stanley (more of a traditional pub setting, with an always-reliable Sunday roast), The Junction Tavern (great beer selection) and St John’s (always so crowded I have yet to try it). I considered The Pig’s Ear, The Princess Victoria and The Only Running Footman, but finally settled on the Duke of Wellington in Marylebone. The Ginger Pig pork on their menu won me over, along with the pub’s credentials (its owners also run the Brown Dog, which gets a mention in the Michelin Guide).

The pub is precisely the sort of splashily made over old boozer that gastropub-sceptics hate. But it was warm and inviting, particularly after 20 minutes of wandering lost in the rain. The downstairs bar was all wood, spiky chandeliers and men in suits, while the snug, dimly lit upstairs dining room featured light-coloured walls, a huge fireplace and tables covered in white linen and skinny flowers. Despite the white linen, the atmosphere felt informal.

Beer choices were a bit disappointing. Having just visited the St Albans Beer Festival, I was yearning for something more obscure than Staropramen, Leffe and London Pride on draught—more real ales would have been especially welcome, but diners here are usually after wines.

We ordered pints of London Pride, and a starter of duck, pork and truffle terrine with Cumberland sauce and salad leaves. I don’t have much terrine experience, but Emily, who does, thought it was good, though she’s had silkier tasting terrine in the past. On its own, this terrine was dense and satisfying, though a bit plain, but pairing it with the tart Cumberland sauce and peppery leaves was a revelation.

My main course, steamed Scottish mussels with cider and sage, was simple, fresh and comforting, with the cider’s dryness making the perfect base for the broth. The accompanying chips—fluffy, crispy and golden—must have been fried in goose or duck fat. Emily’s Ginger Pig pork loin, served with puy lentils, morteau sausage, Alsace bacon and hispi cabbage, was possibly the most imposing hunk of meat I’ve ever seen, but it practically melted when prodded with a knife and fork, its crispy exterior revealing the juiciest, most tender flesh. Emily took one bite and swore it was the best pork she’s ever tasted. Even the fatty bits were irresistible.

Crammed with food, we sadly declined dessert, missing out on a greengage crumble with vanilla custard. Satisfied with our gastropub meal, we left for a proper old boozer.

In summary

Duke of Wellington
94a Crawford St, Marylebone, W1H 2HQ
020 7723 2790
Dining room open Tuesday to Saturday, 7pm to 10pm, and Sunday 1pm to 4pm.
Bar open daily noon to 11pm, with food served Monday to Friday noon to 3pm, and 6.30pm to 10pm; Sat noon to 4pm, 6.30pm to 10pm; Sunday noon to 4pm and 7pm to 9pm.