The World in 202 Meals

As a sushi lover, I was surprised to discover a few years ago that sushi was not, until recently, a food for everyday consumption in Japan. Traditionally it would be saved for special occasions; while more popular today, it is still rarely prepared at home. This little nugget of information raised an immediate question for me: where do I go to experience real, home-style Japanese cooking in London? One quickly becomes familiar with the repertoire of the typical high-street Japanese restaurant, with its focus on sushi, sashimi, tempura and the like. It was Iron Chef that finally steeled my resolve to seek out something a little more adventurous.

Iron Chef, for the uninitiated, is a Japanese-imported cult classic of the 90s. Each episode sees a challenger face off against one of the imposing resident Iron Chefs in a tense battle. A theme ingredient is unveiled, a live commentator adds to the drama, and a curious array of celebrities, including actors, politicians and fortune tellers, judge the resulting dishes. In the overdubbed English version, a cast of voice actors gently caricature the excited tones of each participant, adding significantly to the show’s charm.

During one “octopus battle”, commentators thought they spotted one of the competing chefs attempting a dish called takoyaki. One panel member relished the chance to taste a dish that brought back childhood memories; another, a slightly stuck-up actress, sounded surprised that an Iron Chef would attempt something so, well, common. So when I saw takoyaki on the menu at Asakusa, I knew we’d have to give the place a try.

And we were in for a treat. Takoyaki (to the amusement of a number of our party) are octopus balls. A piece of octopus tentacle is shrouded in a delicately flavoured batter, fried, and topped with a sweet sauce and seaweed shavings. Greasy, but soft and very satisfying, they’re something you’ll rarely see in the more refined Japanese establishments over here. Asakusa, though, is a real gem. It’s a cosy, slightly ramshackle place with menu items handwritten in Japanese pinned up on all the walls. Always busy, it’s near impossible to get a table without reserving in advance, and service was tried somewhat when I led a birthday party there last Saturday. But it’s well worth the wait.

An intimidatingly large menu offers a great variety of home-style Japanese cooking. (I’ve not been to Japan, so I’m going primarily on the number of Japanese Londoners spotted tucking into comforting-looking food.) Sushi is available, and proves some of the best I’ve had in London, although it is kept relatively straightforward. Fancy dragon rolls you will not find, and you’re best advised not to over-burden the one sushi chef with your order.

Instead we tried some of the specials. Baby squid grilled with ginger was simple, succulent and well-seasoned; the generous house salad, with its strips of assorted sashimi, white miso dressing and peanut crunch, comes highly recommended. Squid kimchi, actually a variation on the popular Korean dish, was brought in error, but devoured regardless.

Other members of our party stuck to more familiar options. Beef teriyaki was served juicy and pink in the middle, while katsu (fried cutlets of meat) and yummy tempura reinforced the somewhat greasy but satisfying feel of many of the dishes. Sashimi was well-prepared—Karol admired his mackerel particularly—while Gemma seemed most impressed by the hearty combination of a tofu steak served on a fried egg.

The cute little takoyaki balls were what made it for me, though. Washed down with Asahi Black, and polished off with delicious chestnut and black sesame ice-creams, it made for a very happy birthday. I’ll be back soon to delve further into the menu—which includes jellyfish amongst other exotic options!

In summary

Asakusa
265 Eversholt Street, Camden, London, NW1 1BA
020 7388 8533/8399
Open 6pm to 11:30pm Monday to Friday, and 6pm to 11pm Saturday